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https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf596e4b03d3d6e7a6a07/1441658263604/Washington+Jordan+Rappel+2.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5a6e4b03d3d6e7a6a53/1441658284014/Thielsen+Jordan+Outcrop.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edc460e4b087ad3729b1fb/1441645665298/El+Misti+Camp.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edc460e4b0bf702128928c/1441645669212/Alan+Vallunaraju.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5d4e4b086d4d6a66673/1441658325040/Hood+Steel+Cliffs+Climbers.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55fee0f5e4b0899b91340427/1442767094570/Jordan+Gaiters.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edc460e4b087ad3729b1fd/1441645665357/Alan+Vallunaraju+Panorama.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/560a0de0e4b0f6ae42a64dbd/1443499489500/BT+Belay+Spot.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf58fe4b03d3d6e7a69dd/1441658257821/Washington+Jordan+Rope+Out.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf592e4b0e884b1b77f52/1441658267448/Washington+Jordan+Rappel.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf596e4b0e884b1b77f72/1441658263098/Washington+Jordan+Pano.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf59ae4b0e884b1b77f93/1441658268253/Washington+Climber+Fixing+Rope.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5a2e4b03d3d6e7a6a4c/1441658280943/Thielsen+Notch.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55fe2c58e4b0a1affb9eb865/1442720861443/Jordan+Sloan+Slab+Climbing.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5b0e4b0e884b1b78019/1441658289274/Thielsen+Dinner+Plates.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5b2e4b03d3d6e7a6aa3/1441658293147/TFJ+Jordan+Anchor.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5b2e4b0fe005b3aa687/1441658292601/Mt+Washington+Jordan+Portrait.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5bce4b03d3d6e7a6adb/1441658307744/Jordan+L%27aube.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5dce4b086d4d6a666b3/1441658333596/Hood+Sarah+Ascending.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5c7e4b05e517b4f932f/1441658313398/Jordan+Diamond+Peak+B%26W.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5cde4b086d4d6a66650/1441658318128/Hood+Sunrise+Bergschrund.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5a3e4b0e884b1b77fd1/1441658282111/Thielsen+Looking+Up.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5d5e4b03d3d6e7a6b73/1441658326628/Hood+Sarah+Illumination+Rock.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5dce4b03d3d6e7a6b92/1441658333229/Hood+Pearly+Gates.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5e0e4b03d3d6e7a6bb4/1441658338001/Hood+Jordan+Glowing+Summit+Pano.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5e9e4b03d3d6e7a6be3/1441658346302/Hood+Hogsback+Waiting.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5f3e4b03d3d6e7a6c16/1441658357867/BT+Jordan.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55ee0149e4b0fe005b3ae806/1441661259743/Stuart+23.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf5fae4b03d3d6e7a6c46/1441658363858/Broken+Top+Tents+Night.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf60ae4b03d3d6e7a6ca7/1441658380287/Broken+Top+Jordan+Ass.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55edf613e4b03d3d6e7a6ce7/1441658389924/Broken+Top+Axe.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55ee0144e4b0f3b1af6ec482/1441661254945/Stuart+24a.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55ee0148e4b0f3b1af6ec4a4/1441661259444/Stuart+20.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55fe144fe4b0d089370ee040/1442714704151/HP+Summit.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55fe1459e4b0d089370ee05d/1442714713914/Ancohuma+Porter+Guide.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55fe2c24e4b03624c5131b11/1442720809317/Jordan+Jacket.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55fe2c4ae4b0a1affb9eb831/1442720861436/Jordan+Sloan+Slab+Climbing+2.jpg Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/55edc431e4b019a083e3b9ec/55fe2c35e4b03624c5131b4a/1442720861437/Jordan+Sloan+Glacier.jpg Climb http://kmaxphoto.com/about daily 0.75 2018-10-29 https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/t/55fed87ce4b0009a00fb0610/1442764925322/ea.jpg About http://kmaxphoto.com/contact daily 0.75 2018-10-29 http://kmaxphoto.com/prints daily 0.75 2015-10-01 https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/t/55fef152e4b0410637d1da96/1442771285474/download.jpeg Prints Illampu (6.360m/20,866ft.) during sunrise in the Cordillera Real, Bolivia. Shot taken from the summit of Ancohuma (6.427m/21,086ft). http://kmaxphoto.com/mexico-2015 daily 0.75 2016-01-13 https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c73791c1210bb273fd564/1451000919421/PdO+Glacier+Pano+resized.jpg Mexico | Climb Dawn breaks as we unstrap the crampons and ice axes from our packs. Low clouds sweep inland from the Gulf of Mexico only for their advance to be halted by the Cordillera Neovolcánica, on which we stand. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c73631c1210bb273fd498/1450996606538/PdO+Summit+Pano+resized.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6eee0ab37790ca4cacb9/1450995454442/PdO+Servimont+Writing.jpg Mexico | Climb A quick assessment of the forecast reveals a front moving into the region in four days. After speaking with other climbers recently returned from the climb, we decide to forego the acclimatization hike that would have taken us up Sierra Negra, a subsidiary peak south of Pico de Orizaba. The night is spent organizing gear and making lists of supplies to buy in the morning. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6e4e0ab37790ca4caa0c/1450995284861/PdO+Jordan+Glacier+Wide+Angle.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d80d8af10f8899364e5/1450995735246/PdO+Jordan+Hut.jpg Mexico | Climb It hardly seems real to think that the climb is already over. Our dialogue with the mountain we have just interacted with for the past three days slowly comes to a close, but our alpine sixth-sense has picked up on something else. A mountain laying serenely in the distance begins to speak to us… https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d7a0ab37790ca4ca5fd/1450995720993/PdO+Hut+Rest.jpg Mexico | Climb A hot meal and rest go a long way to restoring the spirit after spending time exerting oneself at altitude. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d70e0327cd48acb085e/1450995714393/PdO+Exhausted.jpg Mexico | Climb In early afternoon we regain the edge of the glacier. The descent through the Labyrinth is uneventful, but soon the white out rolls in and we watch as a trio of scientists still on the glacier disappear into fast-moving clouds. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d70a12f44019c9752ee/1450995213642/PdO+Glacier+Descending+Stepping.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d544bf118911ff3a9d2/1450995033251/PdO+Summit+View+Clouds.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d4ca12f44019c97524c/1450995692486/PdO+Summit+Cross.jpg Mexico | Climb The glacier ends some 50 feet below the summit and a short walk takes us to the lip of the immense crater. We are standing on the highest point in Mexico, the third highest peak in North America. Although thoughts of descending the icy slopes stews in the back of our minds, we are elated at reaching the top. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d380ab37790ca4ca4cd/1450995645287/PdO+Tracks+BW.jpg Mexico | Climb A glacier is an inherently lonely place, but its layers preserve the stories of days long gone. Each careful bite of crampons into its icy flank is a small wound that must be inflicted to ensure your story’s continuation. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d33a12f44019c9751fb/1450995213577/PdO+Tlachichuca+Shadow.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d30a12f44019c9751f2/1450995659733/PdO+Glacier+Staircase.jpg Mexico | Climb 18,000 feet is reached, then reluctantly left behind. Our pace has slowed dramatically as our muscles struggle to operate normally in the oxygen-deficient environment. My mind dwells on the warmth of people, places and moments of my past. These memories have a tendency to seep forth from some deep wellspring of my being when the world around me is open, empty and unforgiving. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d304bf118911ff3a925/1450994997921/PdO+Glacier+Siilhouette.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d2ca12f44019c9751e0/1450994993785/PdO+Glacier+Last+Pitch.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d2aa12f44019c9751dd/1450995678086/PdO+Glacier+Jordan+Climbing.jpg Mexico | Climb We are ripped away from our thoughts and the monotonous sound of crunching ice beneath our boots is broken by a terrifying roar from above. Instinctively, we whip our heads upwards and a feeling of dread defines the next several milliseconds of our lives. These are not avalanche conditions, we repeat to ourselves. The wave of sound becomes more defined and a plane crests over the near horizon. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d2a4bf118911ff3a903/1450995668157/PdO+Glacier+Incline.jpg Mexico | Climb Earlier in the year, a climbing party stumbled upon a mummified corpse on the same face of the glacier we are climbing. Further rescue parties revealed a second and third body, with speculations that these were the remains of climbers that had disappeared in a 1959 avalanche. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d264bf118911ff3a8ee/1450995704448/PdO+Glacier+Descent+2.jpg Mexico | Climb Congratulations are shared as the brief rest has been earned. Clouds begin to form, prompting us to begin our descent before the inevitable mid-day white out sets in. The descent is precarious, as patches of hidden water ice do their best to rid themselves of our presence. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6d0f1c1210bb273fb584/1450994963098/PdO+Jordan+Glacier+Village.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6cff1c1210bb273fb53c/1450995580764/PdO+Hut+Sleep.jpg Mexico | Climb Night is restless. The effects of altitude set in and my thoughts dwell on the dull pain in my forehead. I have felt this before at altitude, but it is something that I must monitor. For hours I squirm in my sleeping bag, trying to find a comfortable position. The worn wooden door creaks endlessly on corroded hinges. I pass the time by watching mice scurry across the floor. Wind gusts lift parts of the sheet metal roof every so often and sets them back down with an unsettling thud. My alarm goes off at 2:30 am. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6cffa12f44019c97511a/1450995590856/PdO+Glacier+Toe+Crampons.jpg Mexico | Climb Faint starlight gives an eerie glow to the darkness during the approach. There are two small lights filtering through the Labyrinth above us during the night, but they are moving abnormally slow. We reach them as we top out. A Spaniard and his Mexican friend are attempting to reach the summit having only arrived late last night. The Spaniard is concerned about his friend, who slumps against a rock. Exhaustion and altitude have taken their toll. They will go no further. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6cdea12f44019c97508a/1450995569962/PdO+Sharpening+Crampons.jpg Mexico | Climb The evening is spent preparing gear for the summit push. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6cde4bf118911ff3a789/1450995559530/PdO+Glacier+Writing.jpg Mexico | Climb Reaching the glacier takes far less time than anticipated. We can see the summit. We feel fit and spirits are high. We decide to attempt the final push that night and leisurely head back down to the hut. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6cb81c1210bb273fb40f/1450995213530/PdO+Labyrinth+Climbing.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6cb77086d78817ad79aa/1450995540918/PdO+Labyrinth.jpg Mexico | Climb Part way through the Labyrinth, we cross paths with the Korean. We had tracked his tiny figure from base camp as it progressed slowly across the upper parts of the glacier in the morning. He tells us the going was slow because the glacier is icy and steep near the summit. We congratulate him on his summit and part ways. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6ca37086d78817ad7946/1450995531678/PdO+Acclimate.jpg Mexico | Climb The next day is spent doing an acclimatization hike under beautiful blue skies and cirrus clouds to scope out the way through the Labyrinth. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6ca2c21b86470303162f/1450995213338/PdO+C3.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c85c21b8647030315d3/1450995519630/PdO+Hut+Inside.jpg Mexico | Climb Shadows stretch long and the day grows weary. The trickle of climbers stops and the last of the trucks disappear over the crest. Without the sun, the temperature drops quickly. Wind chills our faces and emptiness accompanies the shadows crawling over the camp. There is one Korean climber preparing his dinner in the main hut. At 3am I hear the unmistakable sound of footsteps on loose rock as he departs base camp. Suerte, compadre. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c7e1c1210bb273fb35c/1450995507272/PdO+Walkway.jpg Mexico | Climb The afternoon is spent slowly wandering around the surrounding landscape. Climbers are still coming down from the summit. We converse with a few who give us insight into the conditions of the glacier. A couple battered SUVs wait around as the climbers, exhausted from their summit bids, clumsily pack their gear and pile into the vehicles. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c681c1210bb273fb2f4/1451000567516/PdO+Hut+View.jpg Mexico | Climb A final differential-crunching turn around a ridge and our home for the next 3 nights reveals itself. The three-story Piedra Grande hut sits humbly at the bottom of the scene before us, at 14,000 feet a.s.l. A faint trail can be seen running upward toward a prominent boulder field and area of glittering rockfall, aptly called the Labyrinth, where the main trail disappears into a thousand intertwined options. The route is capped by the north-facing Jamapa Glacier. The highest point in Mexico surveys us from its lofty perch at 18,491 feet above sea level. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c67c21b864703031547/1450995499960/PdO+Hut+Writing.jpg Mexico | Climb A couple hundred feet away from the Piedra Grande hut, a small, yellow tin shed hut sits amongst the car-sized boulders. The small space inside the hut is just large enough for the both of us and our gear. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c53c21b8647030314fc/1450995484951/PdO+Transportation.jpg Mexico | Climb Joel, our driver, asks us about our lives in the United States as he guides the bulky truck up the rutted back road, taking us from 9,000 feet a.s.l. to nearly 14,000 feet a.s.l. The routes on the glacier start to become apparent. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c4a7086d78817ad77b1/1450995864516/PdO+Tlachichuca+Street.jpg Mexico | Climb To try to blend in as an ice-axe-wielding, six-foot gringo carrying two jugs of water and a roll of toilet paper through the center of a small Mexican mountain town is a fruitless endeavor. We venture out anyway. The morning is bright as the village recovers from a collective hangover. A quick jaunt across the central zócalo to a small store for last minute food supplies and 35 liters of water is all we have time for before Dr. Reyes’ driver shows up in his 4x4 to take us to the base camp hut, the Refugio Piedra Grande. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c331c1210bb273fb255/1450995864494/PdO+Servimont+View.jpg Mexico | Climb Dr. Reyes’ lodge has impressive history and provides great views of our objective, Pico de Orizaba, as the sun dips toward the horizon. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c231c1210bb273fb1fd/1450995393095/PdO+Puebla+Jordan+Zocalo.jpg Mexico | Climb From Puebla, we huck our gear bags onto another bus going to Tlachichuca, a small village amongst the corn fields scattered across the plains surrounding the base of Pico de Orizaba. We are greeted by Doctor Reyes, a retired surgeon and ex-mountaineer who has transformed his family’s century-old soap and glycerine factory into a lodge catering to climbers. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c13c21b8647030313d1/1450994722146/PdO+Puebla+Doorway.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6c13c647adf832e95189/1450994720430/PdO+Puebla+Bikes.jpg Mexico | Climb https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/567c6bc0b204d52319a5dfbe/567c6bc1b204d52319a5dfbf/1450995380618/PdO+Puebla+Walking+2.jpg Mexico | Climb After a mid-day arrival in smoggy Mexico City, we head directly toward the capital’s main bus station, intending to get on the first bus possible to Puebla, where we spend the night in a windowless hotel room. The next morning is spent wandering the streets of Puebla, half in an attempt to find fuel for our camp stove and half out of a curiosity for what the city looks like on a Sunday. http://kmaxphoto.com/mexico-2015-2 daily 0.75 2016-01-13 https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931ef5a12f449cd659724e/1452482963897/Izta+Shadow.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 A sea of cloud is the perfect canvas upon which to project one’s shadow. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d2dc21b8644c8c0289d/1452483120440/Izta+Amecameca+Breakfast.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 A cramped taxi ride back to Amecameca is the last leg of the journey before we are reunited with the only thing on our minds: food that has not previously been dehydrated. A successful summit swells the soul, but street food from a hole-in-the-wall satiates the stomach. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d2acbced6b74bcec979/1452482777297/Izta+Valley+View.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 We leave high altitude pastures for the scree and talus fields of the sleeping woman. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d2ac21b8644c8c02894/1452483016389/Izta+Summit.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 I look up toward the end of the ridgeline I am now following. My brother’s silhouette is backlit with axe raised amongst a garden of tilted summit crosses. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d270e4c1197d24cb408/1452482901981/Izta+Spire+Clouds.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 The atmosphere continues to put on a spectacular show. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d20c21b8644c8c02828/1452482829001/Izta+Popo+Vista.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 An irritated Popocatépetl launches tufts of smoke into the atmosphere, then fall back down to a more stable elevation far below the summit. Rippling cirrus clouds seem to emanate outward from the axis of the crater. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d1c25981daa98fd2d5b/1452482757820/Izta+Popo+Break.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 It is in the middle of photographing a small eruption on Popocatépetl that my camera ceases to function. My heart sinks. My shutter mechanism has locked up and my attempts to revive the body are futile. My mood begins to slip away as I curse my luck. In his non-chalant way, Jordan silently extends his own camera toward me. Take it. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d1cc21b8644c8c02800/1452483082862/Izta+Popo+Backdrop+3.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 We had monitored reports of a weather system forecasted to bear down on the region for some days prior to our ascent. Making our way back to the hut, we see that clouds are forming over the range much earlier in the day than is typical. We’ve chosen our climbing window well. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d1b25981daa98fd2d3b/1452482875570/Izta+Orizaba+Dawn.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 A previous conquest far in the distance greets us under the glow of a new day. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d1ac21b8644c8c027f2/1452482858271/Izta+Night+Climb.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 All night I am slightly perturbed by the story told to me by the hotel manager the day before. It was only 7 months ago that several men disguised as climbers and armed with shotguns assaulted and robbed a group of climbers in the very hut that I am sleeping in. Logic, reason and experience remind me how rare of an occurrence something like this truly is. As is becoming a custom of mine in huts, I find some solace in watching mice scurry about the floorboards while wind tries to find its way through gaps in the doorjam. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d16c21b8644c8c027ca/1452964879290/Izta+Mtn+Rescue+Truck.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 At the trailhead, we register our names in a hand-written logbook presented to us by a ranger. The men and women volunteers who constitute the mountain rescue teams provide a safety net for the legions of hikers and climbers that arrive every weekend to tackle the mountain. Hundreds of scribbled names fill the pages before us. Being that it is Sunday, the ranger informs us that we are the only ones to pencil our names in his book that day. With a skeptical pause, he explains that the rescue units will be leaving shortly and that we will be on our own. He gauges our reaction. Jordan and I exchange knowing grins. Fait qu'on soit pas emmerdé. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d11c21b8644c8c0278a/1452482867273/Izta+Morning+Ridge.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 A late alpine start at 3:30am speaks to our confidence in being able to get up to the summit and back down without much of an issue. Luckily the wind has died down, but the twilight air is still cold enough to cause a throbbing numbness in our toes and fingers. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d0b25981daa98fd2ca1/1452482750623/Izta+Jordan+Trail.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 We leave the treeline bound for the taupe slopes. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d07c21b8644c8c0271b/1452482767085/Izta+Jordan+Trail+3.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 Jordan and I sometimes have long stretches where no words are exchanged. Mountains and travel have a way of inducing silence and hushing sentiments. As he trudges upwards, however, I express my gratitude with a few simple words. A capable climbing partner is efficient in their ropework, effective in their gear-placement and adept in their navigation of the emotional landscape. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931d0125981daa98fd2c3b/1452483039071/Izta+Jordan+Power+Stance.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 We once again lock eyes with Popocatépetl, but see that he is now silent in the face of our presence. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cfec21b8644c8c026bd/1452483053875/Izta+Jordan+Overlook.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 I am filled with contentment on our leisurely traverse across the landscape. Beauty is reveling in your nothingness in the face of grandeur. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cfe25981daa98fd2c07/1452482815803/Izta+Jordan+Notch.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 Small spaces and low light test my ability to adapt quickly to my stand-in camera body. The crux of climbing Iztaccihuatl is undoubtedly dodging rockfall from descending climbers in the chutes. Not wanting to risk a frontal encounter with volcanic geology, we wait until they clear. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cfbc21b8644c8c02687/1452482999535/Izta+Jordan+False+Summit.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 This false summit is one of three high points on ‘the chest’ of the sleeping lady. To say you’ve stood on the true summit, you must cross a second glacier. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cf625981daa98fd2bce/1452483070770/Izta+Jordan+Descending.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 Firework smoke from the Virgen de Guadalupe celebrations floats slowly up from the valleys thousands of meters below us. To our astonishment, the faint sound of explosions from villages all around sporadically interrupts the alpine serenity. The Mexican people’s ability to celebrate any event, major or minor, will never cease to amaze me. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cefc21b8644c8c0261d/1452483061807/Izta+Jordan+Crossing+Glacier.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 A climbing party from Guadalajara are the only other people we meet on the descent aside from a guided pair of Singaporeans who turn back from exhaustion not far from the base camp hut. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cecc21b8644c8c025eb/1452482804797/Izta+Jordan+Clouds.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 ‘Buenas tardes… buenas tardes… buenas tardes’ is the mantra of the climber ascending on a Sunday as the flow of traffic is almost exclusively downward. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931ce625981daa98fd2b2c/1452482990927/Izta+Jordan+Climbing.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 From the belly glacier, we begin the short climb to the last false summit. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931ce4c21b8644c8c025ad/1452482846504/Izta+Hut.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 The team informs us that we should expect a cold night, especially being only two people in the hut. The recent weeks have seen an abnormal weather system coming down from the Gulf of Mexico resulting in colder-than-usual temperatures. We’ll have 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit after the sun sets. As the slopes above us become socked in with clouds, we retreat to the relative safety of the Refugio de los Cien. Another night encased in a tin sarcophagus. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cdf25981daa98fd2ae3/1452483092695/Izta+Hut+Return.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 Nearing the hut reveals the terraced camp spots that years of mountaineers have sculpted upon the face of the mountain. Before collecting the gear that we had left in the hut, we take some time to make tea and instant pasta. A man wearing tennis shoes and a water belt emerges from a crest below us. This “skyrunner” from Puebla graciously accepts our offering of cookies and tells us all about his sport, effectively a spin-off of trail running that involves running up high-altitude mountains. The man jogs upward into the thickening clouds. All of a sudden our mountaineering boots and ice axes seem pathetically irrelevant, until we see him pop out from the clouds and start heading back down. The summit is only for the skyrunning elite. Still, we are humbled. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cdec21b8644c8c02578/1452482791627/Izta+Hikers+Clouds.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 A moody bank of clouds begins to burst over the volcanic range’s foothills. The terrestrial levee can only sustain so much. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cd825981daa98fd2ab5/1452483026552/Izta+Final+Glacier+Return+2.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 The summit is in the bag. We commence our retreat back across the glacier. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cd4c21b8644c8c02502/1452483006662/Izta+Final+Glacier+2.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 The sun continues tracing its upward arc and we continue our trudge under a sky that has taken on a blurred patchwork pattern. Any sunlight that is able to filter through bathes the landscape in eery opaque hues. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cce25981daa98fd2a64/1452962553334/Izta+Descent+Clouds.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 Retracing one’s steps along the approach route usually goes one of two ways. Either it is silent and contemplative or it is filled with conversation and stoke. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931ccdc21b8644c8c024d0/1452483111122/Izta+Descent+Clouds+2.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 The darkening clouds make our descent muffled and uneventful. In the midst of the clouds we meet a Czech couple on a day hike. They’ve arranged for a taxi to wait for them at the trailhead, which is a great opportunity to hitch a ride, since no one is waiting for us. The haggling that undoubtedly awaits me is something that years of travel have adequately prepared me for. I relish it. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931ccc25981daa98fd2a5c/1452482837633/Izta+Cloud+Break.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 Cresting another ridge, we catch a glimpse of base camp. Another team of mountain rescue volunteers is busy radioing to colleagues higher on the mountain. Airy white clouds form on the western flanks of Iztaccihuatl. Knowing the team is going to leave soon, we engage them in as much conversation as possible before having to go back to scraping the depths of our own brains to find a topic we haven’t talked about yet. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931ccac21b8644c8c024c9/1452482892492/Izta+Belly+Glacier+Tracks.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 Crossing the glacier, however, is straightforward. None of the crevasses are large enough to pose a threat and can be easily circumnavigated. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cca25981daa98fd2a39/1452482882696/Izta+Belly+Glacier+Overlook.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 Each false summit reveals a new landscape beyond it. The “belly” of the sleeping woman is a heavily-crevassed glacier that saddles both the eastern and western flanks of the mountain. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cc725981daa98fd2a30/1452482979965/Izta+Belly+Glacier+Dawn.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 Our ascent slows considerably as we make it a point to soak in the spectacle of the waking world. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cc7c21b8644c8c02488/1452482971831/Izta+Belly+Glacier+Crevasses.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 The crevasses are reminders that a glacier is a perpetually evolving entity. As with most glaciers around the world, this is another that has been shrinking in volume for some time. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931cc5c21b8644c8c02480/1452483129642/Izta+Amecameca+View+2.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 After a celebratory night of feasting on tacos al pastor, tlacoyos and atole, the small hill on the outskirts of the town provides a nice view of our sleeping woman and her guardian. Down in the town square a bus waits to take us back to the capital where the block staircases of the Teotihuacán pyramids await. We should be well acclimatized… https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/56931a71a128e6b30eb2c0ed/56931b8ab204d50df7a0c446/1452482676391/Izta+Amecameca+Square.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 2 As is common amongst mountaineers, reaching the summit of one mountain serves to reveal the unclimbed high points of others. It was from the roof of Mexico that we spotted the curious shape of our next objective stretched along the horizon. Laying tranquilly next to the fuming Popocatépetl, the 5,230-meter (17,159 ft.) Iztaccihuatl has the distinct shape of a woman laying on her back, sleeping, with each of the peaks forming the head, the chest, the knees and the feet. When snow-capped, it is no wonder the volcano’s Nahuatl name translates into ‘white woman.’ We set our sights on Amecameca, the small town from which we take a colectivo to Paso de Cortés. From there it is another 7 km along a heavily-rutted track to La Joya, the start of the climb. http://kmaxphoto.com/mexico-2015-3 daily 0.75 2016-01-13 https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5695d5c55a56685c5eff54d2/5695d6d40ab3771dba41a6b6/1452660580591/MexCity+Kevin+Close+Up.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 3 Afternoon comes and goes, the tourist touts board their buses. Upon the weathered stone of the Pirámide de la Luna, we breathe in ancient air. (Photo credit: Jordan Machtelinckx) https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5695d5c55a56685c5eff54d2/5695d6cb0ab3771dba41a67f/1452660510826/MexCity+El+Moro.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 3 With our hunger for volcanos temporarily satisfied, focus turns to indulging in the delicacies offered up by Mexico City. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5695d5c55a56685c5eff54d2/5695d6cb2399a3e236aefca2/1452660540465/MexCity+Dinner.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 3 Snaking through back alleys and tented markets, our noses and intuitions are reliable tools for finding cheap local eateries. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5695d5c55a56685c5eff54d2/5695d6c82399a3e236aefc83/1452660521318/MexCity+Churros+and+Chocolate.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 3 Wake up call in the Churrería El Moro. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5695d5c55a56685c5eff54d2/5695d6c80ab3771dba41a668/1452660549602/MexCity+Al+Pastor.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 3 A proven sign of a good lunch spot is to observe the locals. A gathering of businessmen and women looking longingly at a rotating heap of meat is likely not a quarterly financial meeting. Tacos al pastor it is. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5695d5c55a56685c5eff54d2/5695d6c52399a3e236aefc7d/1452660591113/MexCity+Pyramids.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 3 The way is up. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5695d5c55a56685c5eff54d2/5695d6c50ab3771dba41a65f/1452660568525/MexCity+Pyramids+6.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 3 Shadows grow long and streak away from the Mesoamerican pyramids. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5695d5c55a56685c5eff54d2/5695d6c22399a3e236aefc60/1452661404268/MexCity+Pyramids+4.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 3 The two volcanos under our belts give us the confidence to tackle a few more high points in Teotihuacán. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5695d5c55a56685c5eff54d2/5695d6c20ab3771dba41a638/1452660535434/MexCity+Police.jpg Mexico 2015 - Pt. 3 Daily gatherings of protestors demanding government action on the disappearance of 43 students on September 26, 2014 force city police to stay on alert in the Distrito Federal. http://kmaxphoto.com/ardennes-arbalette daily 0.75 2018-10-29 https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcb79394785d3d9aab9de26/1540423425592/DSC09875.png Belgium | Cycle Juxtapositions abound in these open spaces. Stands of dead trees anchor themselves to the ground while clouds race across overhead. Not a soul in sight, yet I find a network of boardwalks and trails. I admire the stark landscape, letting it sweep through my mind. At the same time, I try my best to reconcile the inevitabilty of murky water seeping into my shoes. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcb57394785d3d9aab8be2f/1540052823671/DSC00457.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcb55740d9297e211d3b30e/1540424937107/DSC00194.png Belgium | Cycle One cannot cross the Ardennes by simply following the crest of a single ridgeline or keeping to the depths of one valley. Rather, the landscape undulates incessantly, forcing me to constantly adapt my cadence and rhythm to the lay of the land. Each climb is calculated, each hilltop is earned and beyond each summit lays a new scene. A herd of muscular Belgian Blues striding across a field, an old woman in an apron tending to her flowers, a baker making the rounds of his small village with the daily bread, a narrow valley engulfed in the smell of hops and malt from the brewery tucked away at the bottom. It’s early morning as I come down off a heinous singletrack section and ride past the Brasserie d’Achouffe. It’s closed. I am disappointed and grateful at the same time. Disappointed that I won’t get to enjoy a sweet, yet potent La Chouffe golden ale straight from the source, but grateful that I won’t have to negotiate a river-hugging forest track while inebriated. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa0ebeef1a15955437286/1540006147072/DSC00466.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa079f4e1fc7e8cdbb9f5/1540006092827/DSC09962.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa069419202bba2802bdb/1540006092809/DSC09938.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa05ce5e5f0fd9c8112ce/1540006093022/DSC09909.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa04ef9619aa3ecdad1a9/1540426116975/DSC09922.png Belgium | Cycle By early evening I’ve escaped the clutches of the swamps and replace labored hike-a-bike for a swift and flowing descent along the Warche river and into Malmedy. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa0431905f46470e8d2a0/1540006092814/DSC09896.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa0344785d315210731ac/1540422766135/DSC09886.png Belgium | Cycle My research showed several trails leading across the open lands of the Hautes Fagnes. I choose one that follows a creekbed and soon find myself shin-deep in mud with the bike on my back… true “bikepacking”. I opt to backtrack to a wooded area where I had encountered a trail junction. I’ve lost an hour but gained insight. I choose a new path, this one heading straight out across a green expanse and toward a group of trees that stick out like a lost island in a grassy sea. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa02671c10b288e37c176/1540005952655/DSC09869.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa0167817f71f3aca3d28/1540310352458/DSC09858.png Belgium | Cycle Belgium is not generally known for harsh climates, but the Hautes Fagnes may be the exception. Located near the German border, the marshy plateau includes the highest point in the country, the Signal de Botrange, at “nearly” 700 meters above sea level. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bcaa00a71c10b288e37c0c1/1540005924165/DSC09840.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9ffcec212de82206b562/1540053113795/DSC09789.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9fedeef1a15955436b64/1540005902117/DSC00484.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9fda085229a3b86cd614/1540006093022/DSC00481.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9fcb104c7bc5845f21ce/1540422286869/DSC09775.png Belgium | Cycle No matter how many times I have done it, no matter how easy the route looks on paper, no matter how much thought and effort went into planning, there is always a brief moment of hesitation when I’m confronted with the first step of a new endeavour. Doubt penetrates the mind when the body remains stagnant. Where will I sleep? Who will I encounter? What suprises do the hillsides have in store for me? In the woods outside of Liège, Belgium, I stare down an old rail line that will lead me east. It only takes a few pedal strokes to leave doubt rooted to the ground and be reunited with the comfort of movement. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9fc2eef1a1595543697c/1540006092899/DSC00462.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9fb3e2c483dea6172660/1540425989167/DSC00452.png Belgium | Cycle I pop out of the forest onto the banks of the Ourthe river, 15 kilometers south of Liège. A paved cycle path, the RV7, follows the meandering river into the heart of the city where the best gaufres on the planet can be found. I pick up speed and begin eating away at the distance, shifting up in my gears methodically, barely noticing the striking silhouette of a chateau presiding over the treetops. A comforting hum emanates from my knobby tires gripping the asphalt surface as I click into the highest gear. My hands are tucked into the crook of the dropbars with elbows slightly bent and head down. My breaths are deep and gratifying, bringing oxygen to the muscles that have been tuned for this exact purpose. The hum from my tires is now a constant wail, the soundtrack to my re-entry into civilization. One by one, I feel my systems escaping their stases. Oxygen delivery, blood circulation, muscle processes, power transmission, pedal stroke, and body position all harmonizing to liberate the ultimate component of my being: my mind. For several kilometers, I achieve the coveted state of flow whereby the totality of my essence is consumed by the uninterrupted firing of systems operating with the singular purpose of manifesting my will. The journey is closing and I enter Liège fulfilled by its finality. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9fa6e5e5f0fd9c810daf/1540006092877/DSC00442.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f99085229a3b86cd3d8/1540425834607/DSC00439.png Belgium | Cycle The ’central governor’ concept is a theory proposed by a number of scientists that describes a hypothetical brain process that regulates our limits of fatigue in order to preserve the heart and other vital functions from catastrophic failure. Essentially, it is the pain in your muscles that tells your brain to stop and rest. Endurance athletes will look for these pain signals and have developed various techniques to push past them, sometimes with dangerous consequences, such as kidney failure. As I push my bike up a short section of unrideable trail, I think back to some of the hardest days in Spain and Morocco and wonder if I’ve unwittingly pushed past these limits. The thought carries dead weight and suddenly my legs feel twice as heavy. I shake my head and snap back to the present. This is not only the last day on my loop through the Ardennes, but also of my journey that started three months prior in Marrakesh. Dead weight is no use to me so close to the end. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f8e9140b77778f8b46b/1540005803015/DSC00426.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f7eec212de82206b208/1540425662118/DSC00415.png Belgium | Cycle Occasionally, a sustained dirt track through thick timber forests offers the perfect balance between length, grade, riding surface, and ambiance. Along one of these sections outside of Ferrières, I startle a roe deer as I come around a sharp bend. The deer darts off into the forest, but chooses to parallel the track as it leaps effortlessly over downed logs. I maintain my speed, the cadence of my pedal strokes matching the sweeping strides of the deer mere meters away from me. For seconds that feel like eons, we move in unison through static armies of towering firs. Each subtle change in velocity made by one animal spurs a delicate adjustment of balance and power in the other. Hot breaths rhythmically leave our lungs, dotting our wakes with misty nebulas of spent air, lingering briefly as attestations of our efforts before dissipating into the cold morning atmosphere. A shallow creek bed veering away from the track tempts the deer into making a sudden, angular cut to the right and out of sight. I silently thank the creature for the moments of shared momentum and continue on my path. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f689140b77778f8b354/1540005761379/DSC00394.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f51104c7bc5845f1e29/1540005747443/DSC00382.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f3615fcc004de1d9616/1540072594998/DSC00365.png Belgium | Cycle “Passerby: Whether in pain or in joy, you are free. You have the good fortune of admiring this beautiful land. Remember this. Here, on September 9th, 1944, unarmed Belgians were assassinated by retreating SS troops.” https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f2a419202bba28022cb/1540005712565/DSC00343.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f1853450aa462de0d27/1540006093160/DSC00337.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f0e0d929703affd2a6d/1540425421914/DSC00293.png Belgium | Cycle In St. Hubert, I stop at a small friterie not far from the town’s towering cathedral. While sitting at an outside table with a heap of frites, a man comes up to me and asks me about my bike. Hearing about my trip, he excitedly dives into a story about his own travels in his VW Westfalia. Piotr, as he introduces himself, jumps giddily from one anecdote to another, his world clearly consumed by the Westfalia culture. Talking to me like I’m a long-lost friend, it takes him 20 minutes of non-stop story-telling before he saunters off, satisfied with his lecture. Before he gets too far, he turns around and yells, “Oh hey…. welcome to St. Hubert!” A woman walking past glances at me, “… et bon appetit!” she says, smiling. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9f000d929703affd29f2/1540006093155/DSC00277.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9ef2ec212de82206ae50/1540006093151/DSC00250.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9ee68165f5678d17df88/1540006093155/DSC00268.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9ed79140b77778f8af55/1540425403607/DSC00228.png Belgium | Cycle When I reach La Roche-en-Ardenne, I lock my bike outside a store and head inside to resupply and escape the stifling midday heat. At the end of one of the store aisles an older man wearing a beret stands with a lazy grin on his face and one hand in his pocket. With the other hand he contentedly sips free coffee out of a paper cup as he watches people go about their shopping. He puts the drink to his lips, tilts his head back, and downs the contents. As his hand comes back down, he stares dejectedly into the emptiness of the cup and lets out a sigh, as if burdened by the thought of his now coffee-less near future. “How’s the coffee?” I ask. The man looks up to me, then at his cup, then back to me again. “Hmm… I better find out,” he says with a smirk. He refills his cup with the steaming black liquid, gives me a wink, and happily resumes his nonchalant, coffee-sipping vigil. Outside, I briefly take in the life happening around me before heading toward the outskirts of the village and disappearing, once again, into the forests, intent on refilling the contents of my own cup. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9ecaeef1a1595543627e/1540006093158/DSC00221.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9eb7ec212de82206ac0c/1540424987566/DSC00212.png Belgium | Cycle While Belgium is not exactly known for its hiking or outdoor activities due to its lack of truly untouched land, credit must be given to the country for maximizing the use of shared spaces. Trail networks criss-cross the country thanks to planning that has allowed areas between large plots of private lands to remain open to the public. Trails shooting off from rural roads can be found everywhere, often leading the user into bucolic landscapes that would otherwise be inaccessible and underappreciated. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9ea4652deafa3aea366f/1540006093036/DSC00208.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9e948165f5678d17dd50/1540006093032/DSC00205.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9e897817f71f3aca31c7/1540006093021/DSC00200.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9e6871c10b288e37b56f/1540006093022/DSC00197.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9e550d929703affd2546/1540006092892/DSC00183.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9e48f4e1fc7e8cdbaa36/1540005712577/DSC00180.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9e364785d315210723bc/1540005712564/DSC00177.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9e240d929703affd23c4/1540424641759/DSC00170.png Belgium | Cycle Summer in Belgium means a sun that sets late. By 11 pm, as I’m setting up camp amongst the leaf litter, it gets dark enough that the birds have begun to go quiet. The forest is eerily silent. Occasionally, a breeze nudges the towering beech trees enough that they emit deep groans of protest. My mind begins to wander as I lay in my sleeping bag staring up through the mesh of the tent. I am overcome by the humbling sensation that I am sleeping on hallowed ground. Just as this journey brought me to lay upon the soil beneath me, so too did the journey of countless others long before me. I ponder the thought as I gaze into the night. Suddenly, a small light shines out of the darkness, tracing an arbitrary path through the still air above me, moving from my head to my feet. As discretely as it appeared, the light vanishes, its bearer seemingly extinguished from existence. My eyelids grow heavy. In the morning, I take inventory of my surroundings. Laying forgotten in a small grove of young trees, 50 meters from my camp, I find a bowl-shaped hole in the earth three meters across and a meter deep. An impact crater from artillery. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9e191905f46470e8c389/1540005681122/DSC00154.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9e07f4e1fc7e8cdba85e/1540424351243/DSC00147.png Belgium | Cycle Not far from Houffalize, I find a large, well-kept shelter in the middle of the woods. Three horses chew peacefully in a clearing nearby, under the rays of a setting sun. A Dutch man is building a fire in the middle of the shelter. He tells me he is on holiday, hiking a trail from Luxembourg to Holland. We trade stories from our various life experiences and it becomes apparent we have nothing in common except for a shared compulsion to break the rhythm of our routines. To speak candidly to another human being with whom you hold no ties is refreshing. After the coals have died down, we go separate ways into the forest, looking for a place to sleep. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9dfd24a694d6076771fd/1540423775672/DSC00130.png Belgium | Cycle My evening routine involves stopping in a small town to replenish calories and stock up on supplies for the next day before wandering off into a forest or field to pitch my tent out of sight. In Houffalize, I walk into a small, trendy café, craving a mousse au chocolat. The owner looks me up and down, my shins a medley of bruises and scrapes. She turns to the bike, plastered in mud and duct tape fixes. She plants the mousse in front of me and, after exchanging a couple light-hearted jokes, waves away my attempt at payment. Pity has never tasted so good. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9debe4966bdf6c99614d/1540005681034/DSC00124.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9dd07817f71f3aca2c56/1540005681387/DSC00109.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9db8652deafa3aea2e8b/1540005681034/DSC00105.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9da771c10b288e37afb2/1540005680881/DSC00085.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9d977817f71f3aca2a62/1540423586619/DSC00102.png Belgium | Cycle Days prior to my trip, the entire Ardennes region was hit by deluges of rain, causing flooding in many areas. One common trait amongst bikepackers is their ability to dig deep and persevere through such obstacles. Usually though, the prospect of beer at the end of the day is motivation enough. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9d8cb208fc5920b0ff24/1540005680878/DSC00080.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9d7ef9619aa3ecdabca2/1540005681033/DSC00101.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9d68eef1a15955435780/1540005680908/DSC00072.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9d5ea4222f939685cd66/1540052135314/DSC00096.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9d48f4e1fc7e8cdba23e/1540005680868/DSC00064.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9d3f8165f5678d17d361/1540005680877/DSC00088.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9d2e24a694d607676b6f/1540310744088/DSC00063.png Belgium | Cycle … and sometimes reminders are tucked away in the seldomly-explored fringes. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9d0ef4e1fc7e8cdba036/1540005178129/DSC00048.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9cfe4785d31521071a25/1540069822200/DSC00036.png Belgium | Cycle Traveling through a country’s backcountry is like exploring the depths of an attic. Sometimes the reminders of days gone by are blunt and obvious… https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9ceb7817f71f3aca24d9/1540005128242/DSC00043.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9cdc15fcc004de1d83fd/1540069814850/DSC00013.png Belgium | Cycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bb55d24e2c48319f515ea85/5bca9c6e24a694d60767648e/1540005037155/DSC00010.png Belgium | Cycle http://kmaxphoto.com/patagonia-motorcycle daily 0.75 2018-10-26 https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd348ce4785d31588e1e252/1540574670102/Patagonia-Stretch.png Patagonia | Motorcycle I stood next to my black and blue KLR the following day, staring at it as if trying to establish the kind of bond shared between a pair of lifelong riding partners. A mechanical gaze stared back at me. The muddied and scarred heap of metal and plastic wouldn’t offer me the conversations and laughter that Dad and Didier did, but I could sense the first murmurs of a unique trust found only between man and machine. With a grin slowly spreading across my face, I swung my leg over the Kawasaki like I had done hundreds of times before, cranked the starter and pointed my thumping companion north. The arid moonscapes of the Atacama beckoned. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd348c1a4222f686336d467/1540573433129/Patagonia-Rhea.png Patagonia | Motorcycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd348a84785d31588e1e065/1540574577435/Patagonian-Fields.png Patagonia | Motorcycle Knowing our paths would soon diverge, we let off the throttles and allowed ourselves to be driven only by our desire to relish the riding instead of the need to pursue a destination. South America has a way of reshaping the way you plan your day to match its relaxed pace of life. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd34881104c7bbe48337af9/1540574903033/Nosotros-Carretera.png Patagonia | Motorcycle Dad’s eyebrows raised slightly at the skid marks leading toward my spot in the road, where I was in the process of lifting the motorcycle back onto its wheels. “Ça va?” “Yea. I fell, but I’m ok.” My shoulder ached, but it was my pride that had taken the brunt of the fall and he knew it. Dad looked the bike up and down, already coming up with solutions for the broken blinker and cracked plastics as if his garage and tool cabinet were just down the road. Like clockwork, Didier leaned back in his saddle and pitched in with a few jokes. A good riding partner knows how to get a bike back on the road. A great riding partner knows how to ensure your spirits are lifted as well. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd34874f4e1fc5e9028e424/1540573348350/Motoriders-TdP.png Patagonia | Motorcycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd34858b208fc2f644b6090/1540574425324/Groenendaal.png Patagonia | Motorcycle I stood at the entrance of the inconspicuous shack, locking eyes with the two Belgian shepherds eyeing me suspiciously. The officer waved me forward. I unconfidently handed him my awkward bundle of temporary vehicle registration papers, Belgian passport, Chilean ID card, and USA driver’s license. My heart sank as it became obvious from his furrowed brow this was the first time he’d been presented with such a panoply of international paperwork. “Espéreme,” he said as he picked up a phone. I waited quietly. After describing what sat in front of him to whoever was on the other end, the officer listened to a muffled voice. A long, drawn-out silence ensued. “Sí, mi comandante.” He hung up the phone. The wind howled like a banshee outside. The windows vibrated in their frames. Filtered light danced on the officer’s desk as he flipped the papers mischievously through his fingers. Every once in a while he’d glance upward, his eyes meeting mine. At times, his hand reached agonizingly close to the stamp, only to retract it as he appeared to contemplate a new piece of information. My fate was in his control. He knew it. He loved it. Then, as if buckling under the weight of his own fantastical power, he clumsily stamped my passport and shooed me toward the exit. “Pásele.” Argentina, scoured in wind, lay ahead. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd34858f4e1fc5e9028e253/1540573656053/Ferry-Teneres.png Patagonia | Motorcycle With dreams of carving fast gravel lines through pristine valleys and soaring glaciated peaks, we stepped out of our cozy guest house in Puerto Montt ready to earn our first stretch of austral dirt. Two short ferry-rides and 100 miles later we staggered into a stuffy boarding house from under blackened skies, utterly defeated. As Oregonians, we know better than to trust a sky to remain blue for long. Yet, we convinced ourselves that this rule wouldn’t apply during our month of travel through the rainiest region of the world. Weather is quick to put you in your place in Patagonia. An apron-clad woman peeked her head out from the kitchen doorway at the extranjeros locos, grinned knowingly and went to work preparing three additional meals. Outside, droplets of rain sizzled and vaporized on hot exhausts. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd34844b208fc2f644b5fbd/1540573277402/Didier-Patagonian-Road.png Patagonia | Motorcycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd348231905f41e0a91993f/1540573267424/Didier-Chilean-Pass.png Patagonia | Motorcycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd34812104c7bbe4833752d/1540573223961/Dad-Patagonia-Wind.png Patagonia | Motorcycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd3480315fcc0120a6e3e4b/1540574639696/Dad-Mirror.png Patagonia | Motorcycle Our trio crisscrossed barren plains, navigated to forgotten border posts and sped through towering larch forests to return to the location of our initial rendezvous just north of Temuco, Chile. The month of Patagonian motorcycle splendor came to an end as I watched a friend and a father rumble slowly away, around a bend and out of sight. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd3480253450a52802f1b4e/1540574483430/Dad-Gravel.png Patagonia | Motorcycle Although each day of riding offered serious “helmet time” for self-reflection, we spent evenings swapping stories of teenage stupidity, past regrets and far-off dreams. With cuts of meat sizzling next to the glowing coals of an Argentinian asado, I listened to Dad relive the time he plugged a hemorrhaging crankcase with a piece of gum in the Spanish deserts, 30 years ago. Didier’s tales of avalanche rescues as part of a ski patrol unit in the French Alps kept me on the edge of my seat, questioning my own alpine ambitions. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd347e815fcc0120a6e3d2d/1540573209087/Dad-and-TdP.png Patagonia | Motorcycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd347de71c10b0239e93659/1540573197969/Dad-and-Didier.png Patagonia | Motorcycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd347b9104c7bbe4833709f/1540573802366/Carretera-Road.png Patagonia | Motorcycle The man-made spine of Chilean Patagonia is the unpaved Ruta 7, better-known as the Carretera Austral. Spanning 770 miles from Puerto Montt to Villa O-Higgins, the unpaved highway meanders through dense Valdivian temperate rain forests, glacial fjords and Andean mountains. At a handful of small towns along the way, one can opt to cross the border into Argentina by braving the hanging valleys of the Andes and be spit out into the sprawling emptiness of golden Patagonian steppe. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd347b49140b72c978685d2/1540573157629/Carretera-Comrades.png Patagonia | Motorcycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd34798e79c70535da803f6/1540573124065/Tenere-Patagonia.png Patagonia | Motorcycle https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d29e33e4b01d8a4ee6f2f7/5bd33a47e4966b78ab3dddc9/5bd347984785d31588e1d141/1540573124608/Bienvenido.png Patagonia | Motorcycle